Can you Gazza

Gazza any chance you can put up a tyre guide for the guys mate so we can print and keep it when making tyre choices mate cheers!!!

The most important thing on any car. . . Get this wrong and you car handles like a spinning top . . . .

Ok here is what most of us have found out and a Good starting point

the rear tyres for ther Dave is 54pink mediums NO MATTER WHAT TRACK

Fronts Now this is the hard one ( LOL Pun intended )

for the fronts its all down to your driving style so you will need possable one set of each till you know your driving style but the rule of thumb is thus

54 Pink Medium are a 38* . . 54 SE's are a 25*

Soft tyre is OVER STEER just touch the stick and its done a 360* turn so lets say this tyre is 40* Shore . . Go up a grade

42*
44*
46*
48*
50*
52*

Hard tyre is under steer FULL lock and it still wont go around the corner So lets say this is 54* shore . . Go down a grade

Later on ( possable this week ) I will do A step by step pics / video on car set up for all this will take a lot of time so hang on

Rears vary in grip but as gazza said pink meds is where its to be.

But you can use pink purples or pink soft or SE's Mabe get away with 38's depending on how grippy the track is.

V12 set up's

Normal set ups are for 44's to 48's up front 42mm in diameter
44's is the starting point for G2's
46's for 1s lipo cars
48's for mardave brushless cars!

Pink meds rear around 48-52mm in diameter
Full additive all day.

Make sure when your tureing your tyres that they dont over heat (Smoke) as this changes the tyre's grip levels dramatically!


But if you have the ball raced fronts you will need a diffrent set up then a same car on normal studs!

I wondererd how long it would take you Nick

Above is a starting point all start from there NO matter what Mardave you are running

Once you have done a race you will know your car and what tyres to go for its very hard to say a tyre Size of XXmm as I have seen all sorts and what works for one person possable wont work for you YOU have to find YOUR SETUP

I use 54pink rears always ( size is not critical for me and why I dont know )

Fronts I swop on the day possable start on 42* and then swop to 44* when grip comes up

Aim to get your car to FLOW into the corner not jerky if its Jerky then its wrong aim for smooth

There is loads of setups to try / test I will start a post soon and all your tips idea's can go in there along with YOUR setups no matter how daft

For example Young James Baker used to run 54pinks all round and its great . . . . FOR HIM

It took me longer than you!
But as gazza put it its down to driving styles! as to which tyres work.

Thats a good idea ill scan the mardave set up sheet for you lot to copy and fill out

Yea Nick troll the Sites lets get as Much info as Poss and we can sort it out some is trash talk some is great we can do the


e.g I used touring car tyres work's Great

rubbish . . . . BUSTED

eg I use 54pinks on the rear. . car works great

true. . . . . Mega

you get the idea what works what dont

Mardave brushless

Busted

Is that for real or a joke

Well you tryed the mardave brushless system !!!

The mardave system is great its only after some development by those who stuck with it and understood how to use the set up options in conjunction with each other who have got the system working to its best.

It is NOT a £xxxx expensive sensored tc system and shouldnt even be compared with them. It is tough and punches above its weight just like the mardave cars themselves.

If anyone does try the mardave system and has porblems I am more than happy to help as I have used them non stop in various cars since they were first released.

not the So called new one

old one was pants

in the R/C racing scene every one ( 1/10th 1/12th off road etc ) uses a 540 size motor and Mardave a 400 size

why I dont know . . they are cheap as chips like £12 a motor in China but lets not go this route sensorless motors for R/C Racing is a no no for many drivers as they are like an on / off switch great for planes / helicopters which is what they are meant for by the way

The original one from the first batch of which I think you had one as well is in my f103 ferrari and thats my favourite one

Well after having one of the first ones it put me off for life tomo and i wont recommend it to any others.
I prefere my 1s lipo 13.5 as its very easy to use and its not a pig to drive.

As I said its in the way you use the parameters on the program card. If you had managed to hit the sweet spot then you would still be using one now.
As for them being hard to drive then all I can say is I like a challenge If you remember I had one in my mini and that still that handled great

@ Gazza the motors used in the system dont come from a plane manuacturer they are intended for car use but of a smaller scale as stated by the original manufacturer as I asked the same thing

Ok Guys lets kill this one now please

Right as we three are possable the ones with a lot of experance on the Dave

Lets post or put together what you are running

Tomo can you put together what you run and settings on the pit card tyres etc in the Mardave Brushless lipo 4 cell etc

Nick you do the same with the 4cell G2

And I will do the 13.5 Lipo setup

so thats springs / tyres droop on the rear pod (gap pod to chassis ) ride height and the body shell

thats another thing body shells . . . WILL make the car totally differant so if you swop shells then yet another setup is required . . . blimey this could go on for years . . . oh well some thing for the guys to read and most of all all this info is here on RC CIRCUIT CARS . . The mardave nerve centre if you wont to know about Mardaves tell them its on

RC CIRCUIT CARS

To start with here is a tip that many dont know about its the Famous Rear Pod FINE TUNE

look athe the Picture below the rear pod Part 8D and 8F

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

this plastic that goes through a pin but did you notice the little rubber "o" ring

well lets say you have 42* fronts on and its over steering. So you swop to 44* and now you have a little under steer not to much but just enough so you could do with say 43*. . .

Well if you tighten the screws either side this will squash the "o" ring tighter around the pin so what you all say

well tighten it up and you have LESS grip on the front losen it and you have MORE grip on the front just what you want for fine tunning

Nice one gazza. I will try this Friday.

Me shell is now finished wid stickers and spoiler YAY looks wicked.
Will put pics up as soon as photobucket works.

TOMO wrote:
@ Gazza the motors used in the system dont come from a plane manuacturer they are intended for car use but of a smaller scale as stated by the original manufacturer as I asked the same thing

Sounds intresting Tomo you got a LINK to there site

Ok another thing to check guys . . . . Tuesday Night I had yet another 2 cars to set up and I noticed the same thing

ALL please check your rear springs ( in this case the red ones ) I noticed that this is the 4th one I have done now one is thicker that the other and this will cause handleing issues I have e-mailed Chris and is now aware of this

If you notice this on your car then contact Mardave [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Bet Chris is gona love you LMAO its a good spot though. Didnt Gazag have that on his?

Gazza wrote:I have e-mailed Chris and is now aware of this

If you notice this on your car then contact Mardave [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

All ready aware I told him last night he said ok thanks

Gazza wrote:To start with here is a tip that many dont know about its the Famous Rear Pod FINE TUNE

look athe the Picture below the rear pod Part 8D and 8F

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

this plastic that goes through a pin but did you notice the little rubber "o" ring

well lets say you have 42* fronts on and its over steering. So you swop to 44* and now you have a little under steer not to much but just enough so you could do with say 43*. . .

Well if you tighten the screws either side this will squash the "o" ring tighter around the pin so what you all say

well tighten it up and you have LESS grip on the front losen it and you have MORE grip on the front just what you want for fine tunning

WOW thats really mashed my head Gazza

I would have thought if you tighten it, it would give less rear grip, (as the 'O' is not as free moving on the guide pin) and more front grip.....loosen and it would give more rear grip (as the 'O' ring is looser on the guide pin) and less front???

Defo gonna have to try this out!

yea try it Lee

But its a small amount for . . . FINE tuning

you wont see BIG change's just Small