Rear axle float

How much left to right float is normal on the rear axle?

Wynney wrote:How much left to right float is normal on the rear axle?

shim the axle so it's not binding up the bearings

you should be able to feel the end float but needs to be no more than 1mm

I've had a few axles now and every one was different in slop. I had 2 washer on one then 1 on another now a very thin washer on my current diff axle.

I would have as little as poss on slop so just play around with different washers till its perfect and spins freely.

Fantastic, that's what I figured, thanks guys!

just shimmed mine out with a shim from 12th pancar axle. Had to file it out a little though.

anyone found any shims that fit with out the need to file the inner hole out?

one thing I might do instead is file the axle were the flats & shoulder are so the spacer can sit futher on

On some sites there's a mardave part listed.

See [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] on the main page there is a part that solves this.

Part No V11C Gear Clips £1.95 per pack of 5 clips

Thats end float Tomo . . not sliping spur

Yes Gazza I realise this but these help with that also.
Please get things correct before posting as you tell me

Right . . . . So that clip will solve the end float problem and not a washer . .
In that case I will take all my washers off and buy some spur clips

sorry My fault

Tomo wrote:See [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] on the main page there is a part that solves this.

Part No V11C Gear Clips £1.95 per pack of 5 clips

by your post

how do they help reduce end float on the axle?

spoke to Mardave and they no longer have shims for the axle

This is an old trick we use on the Bangers> you slip the the clip onto the gear, put onto your axle on the car then you crimp the clip with large pliers or something simlar do both ears of the clip, now because you are squashing the gear onto the axle, this not only makes it a tighter fit on the drive flange of the axle, but it also has the effect of lengething the gear slightly due to the compression caused by the crimping, hence no need for axle shims, also depending on what type of wheel you are fitting I have found you either tighten the wheel nut as normal, but check to make sure that it is not pushing the wheel and gear assembly onto the bearing in the motor block and making it hard to spin the wheels, if it does you can either slacken off the wheel nut a little, or file a little off of the gear, before you do this spin the axle and make sure it is located ok, because you can find yourself needing to shim the axle as before, so take a little time and get it right, and remember to keep thoes bearings oiled and cleaned, not too much oil though as you dont want it going up the axle so it makes the gear slip!

Thats the way to do it

What a brilliant explanation nice one Mark

1/4" shims from action model centre

CAL-4732 Calandra 1/4 DIFF SHIM SET (20) REAR AXLES SHIMS
Price: £4.49

uop101 wrote:1/4" shims from action model centre

CAL-4732 Calandra 1/4 DIFF SHIM SET (20) REAR AXLES SHIMS
Price: £4.49

Have a shed load and the first one I tried needed a file to it to get it over the axle. Second one went on no trouble.

agree or disagree I'm not making another

Good explanation.

Interesting mod to your motor pod there Glenn! Otherwise I take it the body mounts caught the back of the pod.

Hope you have taken the precaution of soaking the Silver VRX parts ie. the pod and wishbones in a pan of gently simmering water, it helps to stop them breaking as they can be a bit fragile, and make sure you have the motor screws done up tight, because the pod moudings are hard and the motor screw's does not get a firm grip to hold it tight, mine kept comming loose no matter how hard I tightened them, smashed the rear corner off one at Ardent, right through the bearing seat, I now have the standard Black mouldings on the car, and the motor has not moved yet!

I was wondering if it might be possable to have a copy of the "build advice videos" on a dvd sometime! they are better than trying to explain something to a new racer just starting out.

Nicely done Glenn but you can speak its not a crime

I would get some Black A arms and a black rear pod as them gray ones wont last long

stox216 wrote:
Interesting mod to your motor pod there Glenn! Otherwise I take it the body mounts caught the back of the pod.

posts looked to close for comfort so I removed a little from the pod tray

stox216 wrote:Good explanation.

Hope you have taken the precaution of soaking the Silver VRX parts ie. the pod and wishbones in a pan of gently simmering water

Nope, but maybe I will after the first one breaks