Back end of my mardave

So after a greats night racing last night

Im rebuilding Maggie for next week same as i do every week.
And my back end is really low (no due to tyres) ,your meant to have a small gap between the rear pod bottom plate and the chassis ,yet mines 1.3mil (yes i measured it) to me this seems rather big, is this right or should i tighten the springs down to raise the chassis closer (if thats how its done).

Regards Jamie

There MUST be clearance between the pod's bottom plate and the top surface of the chassis. Usually, somewhere between 1.5mm and 2.5mm is good. Less than 1.0mm and the pod will hit the chassis as the car transfers weight in the corners.

Your 1.3mm is probably ok but keep an eye on it as your rears wear more

J

Ye just been on the phone with Chris hes sending me some new 48s for the front and pink meds for the rear as your right! my rears are some what dead

If possilble could you bring along your Truer for me if you wouldnt mind mate.

gona run Fronts at 46.5mil and the rears at either 48m or 50m

No worries, tire cutter is already in the boot!

I start my rears at 50mm diameter and fronts at about 48.5mm. The raised front plate on the CE chassis limits front tire diameter a bit (you can't run them as low as you used to be able to on the old alloy chassis like yours) so I start mine off a wee bit bigger than usual and still get a good couple of months out of a set of fronts.

If you can, get more than one pair of rears. If you apply additive more than a couple of times to a tire each meeting you risk over softening the foam and tire wear will be very much increased. Some additives, I think, also eat away at tire glue too. I find running 2 pairs of rears (per car) and applying additive for the first two runs with each pair means I often don't need to additive the last set in the finals. I usually allow my rears to run down to 46-47mm before ditching them, but you might be able to go a little lower if you like. Doing this means I can get can get 4-6 meetings out of each set of 4 tires, but that really depends on track layout, grip levels, etc, etc, etc...

J

ok il order a couple more rears tomorro ive allso got coming hopefully before monday my new Chrome Rear Pod and chrome
Wish bones wanted to get the kingpin brace as well but Chris hasent got any in stock

im thinking about Ditching the v7 and going Quantum v2 or the orginal one depending on what i can find, Failing that model junction
have a top of the range brushed speedo they will sell me for £30 (forgot the name sorry) as i can not have brakes on the GT7
that part of the speedo is broken (it belonged to robin so erm ye)

ive sllo order a Futaba (#BLS651) Brushless Digital Servo for the mardave its same size as your one i manged to get it half price usal price is £77 or there abouts and i got mine for £42

Jamie

That looks like a nice little servo - good specs too!

Since it is the 'micro' size though you'll have to re-drill the holes to mount it to the chassis. These sized servos are both narrower (side to side) and 'shorter' from where the servo saver mounts to the output spline and the servo mount holes. A good tip here would be to aim to mount the servo on the opposite side to which you have your current servo. That way any new holes you drill won't be too close to the ones you already have. There'll be a small change in weight balance but that is easilly rectified.

James

Ye this way no splitting in the chassis when i drill the new Holes ive spoken to the shop owner i brought them from
it appears i have to wait till friday for my server and chrome bits as thats when he does his shipping

However Chrisd got me my jap 48s and ulfar pink meds to me today with my new v34 m3Nylock nuts
as i was running low he didnt have any white 6 spoke wheels left so he sent me black instead (got any white ones going spare james?)


Regarding the A arms are those silver ones any better /worst then the orginal Black ones ? allso is there A arms that have a hole in the center to mount a brace
along the center of both A arms , i do beleave i saw this on one of the Cars you sold Dad James? Because this will be my next step

All the A-arms I have ever had have been plain. I have drilled any holes I needed for braces etc myself. However, I believe some of the grey ones for the Sam Grey VRX chassis did have the holes pre-drilled or moulded into them. To be honest though I have never seen any on the shelves.

I've not seen the new, chromes ones yet, it will be interesting to find out what yours look like when they arrive.

James

if you take a look at the new mardave parts (chassis) youl see the chrome rear pod there

Ah, that's not a chrome pod.

I believe it is the new alloy one. Check the square brace bar and the machining that has been done around the bearing holders.... As for the bearing holders, they will be a little different form usual - removable plastic oval-shaped 'cams' that the bearing sits in. Differnet cams will have different off-sets. We will be able to swap the cams to change the rear ride height without needing to change the rear spring tension. As in 1/12 scale...

James

ahh kool well hopefully this will give us somethign to play about with monday

Now im gona have to buy one of modal junctions little £35 13.5s (yes i know you said u dont like them)
but i want to compare Maggie on a G2 ,to a Brushless set up on another mardave (all my spare parts will go on the other chassis to make one up)