Touring Car to GT10

Hi Lads


A couple of months ago back in April, I went to Ardent raceway for the first time as a RC newbie with my Tamiya TT01. It was a blast! While the car wasn't very fast with its brushed motor I still enjoyed driving it around the track.

Back then I didn't even know about GT10 and all I saw was touring cars being used for races and so I decided to buy an Xray T3 in June with a 13.5 motor in order to compete since there are no such things as TT01 races.

Truth is I've not enjoyed it as much as I thought I would. Don't get me wrong, the T3 is a beautiful machine as are all top end touring cars... But the complexity of the chassis setup whilst sometimes fun can be frustrating most time. I rarely get the car to handle well, and just want to race rather than tinkering all the time.

I just want to race with a solid car, and I'm thinking about joining GT10 because of its emphasis on racing rather than complex setup. I also love the look of GT10, the bodyshells look much better in my opinion. Also, with the use of foam tyres you get much much more grip, which would allow me to concentrate more on the actual racing - I know you have to be careful though because of the rear wheel drive.

Are my presumptions about GT10 right? ... or am I wayyyy off?

I have read as much as I can on the forum, but I still have questions, so please forgive me if you feel like you have answered them 100 times, there seems to be little / sparadoic content about RCGT/WGT on the net.


+ I've seen the chassis you can get, which ones are the most popular at Ardent? ... I think I read somewhere that Gazza uses an Xray X10 ... I really like Xray.

+ Everyone seems to prefer 1s/10.5 setup.... does anyone bother with 2s/17.5 ?? Ardent Winter Series seems to support both? - I've heard they are both well matched, in which case why bother having two setups instead of one?

+ Could you provide me with a link or description as to which foam tyres are best for Ardent? (Incl shore).

Thanks in advance for any help guys, and hopefully I'll see you at the track soon with a GT10 car!

Dal

Hi Dal,

I tried WGT cars about 2 years ago for exactly the same reasons as you - touring cars were just too complex for me to get going really well.

Some of you assumptions about WGT cars are right, some are a little off. Firstly, they are more simple than touring cars. Fewer parts, less complex setup and geometry and, yes, they do look a whole lot nicer too. However, don't be fooled by the 'simple' design. Because these things are so light and rear wheel drive too their balance needs to be 100% spot on. This means you have to be EXTREMELY careful during the build to make sure that no moving stick or bind, that all moulding flashing is trimmed off and that, when finally assembled with all electrics, there is no weight in-balance or tweak to the chassis.

Get it right though and these beauties fly!

I had an Xray X10 for my chassis. I chose this over the Calandra or Associated somply because I have had Xrays in the past, I still have an XII (and many of the parts cary over) and I liked the metric screw kits rather than imperial. It is a great car, the only down side is how much rubber you have to grind off the rear tires to get yourself 5mm ride height. Even with the rear axel cam off set as much as possible I was still throwing away nearly 2/3 of the rubber on each set of rears! The thing is, the car went better like that, even if it did seem a bit of a waste. Also, I think the same is true for the other makes of car too?

As for 1s and 10.5 or 2s and 17.5 I went for the 1s route. This is lighter and therefore has the potential for better conrering over the 2s version. With the X10 chassis you also get the option to move your cells and electrics about for better weight distribution with the smaller 1s packs. I ran my cells up front and receiver and speedo behind them. The drawback is getting your electrics to work on the low voltages from a 1s pack. My advice is to run a speedo that has a voltage booster built in (LRP SXX Stock Spec, Nosram Pearl (Version 2 of both of these are best) or the Hobbywing 1s speedo) if funds allow. If you're on a tighter budger then you'll need a to buy a booster separately to power your existing speedo.

Lastly, tires. I have only run at Ardent once and used my 'standard' tires for there. These were the BRCA approved 'Lilac' compound front and rear. They were also the tires I used at the other half dozen or so clubs I ran the car at because (back then) they were the compound most clubs selected as a control tire for big meetings. They were prety much spot on though - plenty of grip, tune the grip by varying the amount of additive on the fronts (ALWAYS use full additive on the rears) but I'd also suggest you have 2 or 3 full sets so you only have to apply additive twice per tire per meeting. Pinks front and rear had a tiny bit more grip buy wore out fast!

Unfortunately my X10 has been on the shelf for a while as the class has dwindled at my local clubs and I am now racing the Mardaves. These might be a bit slower but they are potentially more fun!

Hope this helps,

James

Hi mate,

Glad you looking at the class, bloody good fun and tight racing so heres some answer to your questions.


+ I've seen the chassis you can get, which ones are the most popular at Ardent? ... I think I read somewhere that Gazza uses an Xray X10 ... I really like Xray.
- The most popular chassis at the minute are the CRC GenX10 LE and the Associated RC10R5 pros and cons to each but they can be easily setup for ardent.

+ Everyone seems to prefer 1s/10.5 setup.... does anyone bother with 2s/17.5 ?? Ardent Winter Series seems to support both? - I've heard they are both well matched, in which case why bother having two setups instead of one?
- Depending on the weight of the car they are matched. The two setups were made so it made it more appealing to TC drivers who already have the speedo and the 2s lipos. Just need motor and chassis and you are away!

+ Could you provide me with a link or description as to which foam tyres are best for Ardent? (Incl shore).
- After trying many different compounds and makes you can make pretty much anything work. I have varying sets of tyres from RC4Less and the CRC Lilacs. Pretty much everything works. I would start with the CRC lilacs and go from their really. #

I have been running GT for about 6 months now and it is the best racing I have ever done. I have a blog http://rcgtpancars.blogspot.com/ that may be some use to you. If you are at ardent on sunday for the first round of the pan car winter series feel free to come and ask any questions.

Cheers
Chris

Ditto what chris says above.

Feel free to come and speak to any of us if you're at Ardent this Sunday, I've just started GT10, having previously run TC, I now run both 1/12 & Gt10, both Associated because the parts are interchangeable.

We dont bite, well most of us dont!

There aren't really any bad cars out there. If you're going to run at Ardent the CRC and Associated are the best supported so there will be plenty of spares and advice around.
The biggest issue is the difference between the ones that are "built properly" and the ones "assembled in accordance with the instructions" as these two are not the same. If you do take the plung get an experienced pan car racer to give your car a once over they will no doubt find something not quite right.

As for the 1s 2s debate I think on large tracks 2s is the quicker option on small tracks there isn't much in it

Jason

James, Chris, Ghost, Jason - thank you very much for your input - it really has cleared up a lot of questions that I had about GT10.

Chris - I actually read your blog a few days ago, it made me even more pumped to get into GT10, keep up the good work, its valuable for newbies like myself.

I may look into the CRC GenX10 LE and the Associated RC10R5 chassis a bit more.

I'm gonna go for the 1s/10.5 setup.... I have a tekin RS pro, but that would require me to wire up a booster which I cannot be bothered with, so Im thinking of getting the LRP SXX Stock Spec as James suggested.

Any advice on motors? - I like Tekin motors but to be honest it seems like the BRCA don't usually allow them, I rarely see them on the lists, I think the LRP x12 looks good.

Finally... if the thickness of the foam tyres matter soo much, then does that mean every GT10 driver has their own tyre truer.... im guessing its a 'MUST'' ??

I'm aware that GT10's will be racing this weekend at Ardent, and I think im gonna pop down on sunday and meet up.

Thanks guys!

Dal

Tekin motors are on most of the BRCA lists, I can't see it on the 13.5 list so I assume it was never submitted.

There isn't a great deal to chose between motors nowadays, GM and HPI are probably the best value for money.

Not normally a problem finding a truer at a race meeting hire rates usually run a high as an occasional cup of tea! so you won't need one straight away.

Jason

tekin redline motors are fine, they are legal. I used to run one before I change to the GM.

Truers aren't a must, normally a few kicking about at meetings that if you ask nicely you can borrow I got one purely because I could. They are handy to do tyre maintenance away from the track such as repairing chunks etc. Up to you if you decided to get one or not.

Come down on sunday there should be a couple of heats of GTs to watch.

chris_blakey wrote:tekin redline motors are fine, they are legal. I used to run one before I change to the GM.

Truers aren't a must, normally a few kicking about at meetings that if you ask nicely you can borrow I got one purely because I could. They are handy to do tyre maintenance away from the track such as repairing chunks etc. Up to you if you decided to get one or not.Come down on sunday there should be a couple of heats of GTs to watch.

would be intrested to find out how you repair the chunks chris

have a butchers on my blog paul

http://rcgtpancars.blogspot.com/

Thats totaly wicked Chris any chance you could post that up on this siter mate made me think now abour repairing som of mine well written great pictures

Guys,

I researched the RC10R5 and the CRC x10, I think I might take the CRC... I read somewhere that the RC10R5 is being discontinued?

Also, I know there are some bodyshells by protoform, but can we use any GT bodyshell.... like the kyosho mclaren f1? .... or do we only follow the list on the BRCA on a normal sunday race?

Cheers

Dal

the protoform sophia is the most popular shell due to handling.
There are plenty other shells that fit but the handling characteristics are unknown.

The HPI 200mm series, they're not that strict at Ardent.

I use the HPI Mclaren F1 LM.

Hi from Vegas

Cars...10R5 is well supported in the UK even if Associated are not making new kits. Parts will be freely available for ages yet as many are shared with 12R5 kits. The CRC is a good kit and well supported in the US...try Troy McKune's chassis for a tune up option as well.

I also rate the CEFX chassis from Josh Cyrul. Not popular in the UK (yet!)

If you have 2S kit from TC running then that would be a good place to start. I un 10.5 and 1S as a carry over from 12th racing and it suits the big US racing meeting classes I race in. IIC @ Vegas and Snowbirds @ Florida both run 1S based classes.

Motors...any from the list would be good. Tekin are ok, as are LRP. I run GM motors as I find they cope with any heat build up well, and I've run one for 4-5 years in different cars.

Tyres...the Lilac compound from CRC (made by BSR) are a good place to start. True to 54mm for competition, ot 55mm as a sensible club racing start. Come see anyone with a truer and they would be happy to help you out.

Things to get used to from TC to GT10 racing = mmpr rather than final drive gearing, consistent additive timing and width, making sure the front suspension moves smoothly up and down, and that the rear articulates smoothly in all directions.

Shells...the Protoform Sophia is the shell of choice. The Corvette shells look good and are an ok place to start, but lack front end steering of the Sophia. The HPI shells also look good.

Come see Jason or I at Ardent next weekend. We don't bite

Look forward to racing GT at Ardent with you all.

cheers for the help on bodyshells....


I think the Sophia is standard as you say, in time though I'll probably want another shell as well just for kicks, something different.

Mark - Are you racing in WGT in Vegas?? How's the support over there for GT10, stronger than uk?

Hi All

I have raced the Xray and the CRC and can tell you there is no differance in the build or quality

Its how Jason puts it you have to have it set up and this is where Jason / Vince / Chris can help out ( im still a newbie )
I had the XRAY and could not get it to go as good as the Associated or the CRC so a CRC came up for sale at the club I bought it and the guy built it as per the book and guess what . . .

Yep it handled the same as the XRAY ( gutted another £150 and still no better )

But after help from the 3 Musketers I can say its been great fun and yes no seting up like a touring car . .
This is as you say lets race and boy is it fun I can say in my opinion its like racing a Mardave but faster LOL

What I now know about setting up GT's I now know the Xray will go just as good as I now have a basic set up that works and if put on any car then you WILL enjoy it far more than touring cars thats for sure

But hey come this sunday at Ardent its gonna be fun

TurboGuru wrote:cheers for the help on bodyshells....


I think the Sophia is standard as you say, in time though I'll probably want another shell as well just for kicks, something different.

Mark - Are you racing in WGT in Vegas?? How's the support over there for GT10, stronger than uk?

Yes I have just got back from racing WGT at the IIC in Vegas

The class is well supported at the largest US meetings - IIC, Snowbirds and the ROAR indoor championships. Scotty Ernst laid down the initial class rules for the IIC a few years ago, and ROAR (the US national body, so their equivalent to the BRCA) adopted them.

At the IIC there were 21 racing the World GT Expert class. This was 1S LiPo plus 10.5 with open speedos. It has a class entry, particularly from CRC.

There was a second World GT class for 1S and 13.5 with blinky speedos. This had close to 40 entires. The cars looked notiacly slower down the straight, but interestingly the fastest lap times were not that much behind the Expert class.

CRC are the largest "team" with many of their top racers competing in WGT alongside other 12th classes. Associated had a two man team - Bob Stelflue and Mike Blackstock. CEFX was represented by Josh Cyrul. And there was a small team from Speed Merchant. Troy McKune makes a chassis for the CRC car and was also racing.