Final draw for P2

Ok guys this is the final look that the P2 will have they are being laser cut next week we listened to all your imput and put it in the chassis drawings as we speak are being converted into cad by laser cutters. grp making its way to us as we speak so hopefully this car will be avalible to view hold touch by Ardent round 2.


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Nice some rear wheel protection

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More space to give you diffrent combinations of set up

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This chassis will also come with a top plate to add camber sorry its not in the picture but will be on the new car. also the front end chassis is curved off as requested by Bindy

not sure how much chassis roll there is in a Mardave but I hope the chassis doesn't rub on the carpet with those wings

same as pan car but this wont roll over

Roll on Thursday thats all i can say cannot wait like a kid in a sweet shop!!!!!

that looks spot on
how much will these be and who/where from?

your right it won't roll over cus those big wings will be riding the floor as stabilized!

you have defo gone the wrong way with your design.. i will draw something ip later

For Chequered Flag,

"How much does a Mardave roll?"

I run my CE chassis at about 4.0mm ride height. That is prety much the same as I run my old alloy chassis too. On my CE chassis I find I get a tiny pickup of black dirt (additive and dust mixture) off the tracks I run on - mainly on the extreme side edges of the chassis and a little bit on the very front edge. I'm ignoring the front edge as this will be picked up from any little lumps and bumps in the track, joints in the carpet etc. The pickup at the edges will be from as the chassis rolls in the corners and scuffs on the carpet.

I've worked out that this equates to about 5 - 7 degrees of body roll, depending on the proportion taken up by the front and rear springs.

With my standard alloy chassis I NEVER got dirt pickup on its side edges because it is narrower (77mm compared to about 97mm for the CE).

My local tracks are all relatively small, the biggest is aroung 20x12m, and so we usually run medium or hard springs front and rear. We don't often have big, open and sweeping corners, more point and squirt layouts. However, the dirt pickup on the chassis shows that I'm still scuffing the carpet with the CE chassis. I'd guess that on bigger tracks with more high speed corners chassis roll is likely to be more severe and a wider chassis will bottom out more easilly.

James

Right then guys, to create a "Super Dave, i think you should be looking to take a leaf from the WGT lot with the "Inline" thinking.... with this in mind i have "ms paint" a 2 second drawing below

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This wide chassis you are creating is just simply a pointless effort tbh, you might as well just run the standard chassis, all you are doing here is making something that WILL hit the ground mid corner on its wings, and will be heavier

You should be trying for something like above, you can then have the option of running your lipo further forward with the esc at the back to help tune the car for different grip levels.

Run your servo INFRONT of the axle line reversed to give you more room

Daz

So build it and let us know how it goes

Clean air so why are pan cars so wide lets wait and see it go first and you can reverse the servo on this chassis as well looks like 200 ilegal imgtants crammed in a phone box that paint pic

1/10 Pan car track widths are wide, but their chassis are relatively narrow.

Speaking of narrow chassis and centre cells... here's one I made earlier. This is my MK 32, completed in May/June this year.

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Some design notes:-
1. Chassis is 2.6mm carbon. It is 87mm wide at widest point. I could probably make it a bit narrower...
2. Wheelbase and track are as from a standard V12, ie about 165mm track and 203 wheelbase.
3. Rear pod is alloy version (off eBay). It does a good job of keeping the motor cool but the proper Mardave version is lighter, stiffer becasue the rear brace cannot rotate and I prefer it. But it is on my other car...
4. Front end uses a riser plate and 'camber braces' because the plate is too stiff to give any real flex. These braces can be tightened to give camber by slightly bending the kingpins. I'm not sure this is ideal but it seems to work. Front springs are off my xray 1/12 car - I needed shorter ones than the standard V12 springs.
5. Rear damper is off 1/12 car. Works very smooth but new Mardave one is easier / less messy to re-fill and adjust with different oils.
6. Centre cells - I use half a saddle pack (1s LiPo, 5400mAh and 50C) becasue they work out cheap and are shorter in length than your regular 1s packs. These are placed forward for better weight distribution. Like this i get 45/55 front to rear weight split. Front tires cut to 22mm width to compensate.
7. Angled servo. This gives negative bump-steer (and therefore slight undeersteer in high speed corners) but if I was to re-do this I'd use the servo flat for neutral bump-steer.
8. Motor is spaced 2.5mm away from the pod. This is for better side-to-side weight balance.
9. 10g balance weights needed for perfect side-to-side balance.
10. Total race ready weight is 805g, including transponder, shell, wheels etc...

NOTE:- speedo removed (it is in my other car.).

James

It will be intresting on how this goes.

JimboJames1972 wrote:1/10 Pan car track widths are wide, but their chassis are relatively narrow.

Speaking of narrow chassis and centre cells... here's one I made earlier. This is my MK 32, completed in May/June this year.

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Some design notes:-
1. Chassis is 2.6mm carbon. It is 87mm wide at widest point. I could probably make it a bit narrower...
2. Wheelbase and track are as from a standard V12, ie about 165mm track and 203 wheelbase.
3. Rear pod is alloy version (off eBay). It does a good job of keeping the motor cool but the proper Mardave version is lighter, stiffer becasue the rear brace cannot rotate and I prefer it. But it is on my other car...
4. Front end uses a riser plate and 'camber braces' because the plate is too stiff to give any real flex. These braces can be tightened to give camber by slightly bending the kingpins. I'm not sure this is ideal but it seems to work. Front springs are off my xray 1/12 car - I needed shorter ones than the standard V12 springs.
5. Rear damper is off 1/12 car. Works very smooth but new Mardave one is easier / less messy to re-fill and adjust with different oils.
6. Centre cells - I use half a saddle pack (1s LiPo, 5400mAh and 50C) becasue they work out cheap and are shorter in length than your regular 1s packs. These are placed forward for better weight distribution. Like this i get 45/55 front to rear weight split. Front tires cut to 22mm width to compensate.
7. Angled servo. This gives negative bump-steer (and therefore slight undeersteer in high speed corners) but if I was to re-do this I'd use the servo flat for neutral bump-steer.
8. Motor is spaced 2.5mm away from the pod. This is for better side-to-side weight balance.
9. 10g balance weights needed for perfect side-to-side balance.
10. Total race ready weight is 805g, including transponder, shell, wheels etc...

NOTE:- speedo removed (it is in my other car.).

James

And you have already built the car... Gazza/Paul THIS is what you should be aiming for!

Errr in one word . . . NO

hi guys, i am new here , the new chassis is certainly interesting, i wont go into possible effects the wider chassis may have on roll centre etc but, i would like to ask, what does the new chassis actually bring in lap times for the same driver,same tyres, same body shell, same track against a stock v12 chassis?
cheers,
rc

RESULT AFTER NEXT WEEK

as soon as its MADE . . . . we will let you know LOL

Im not wanting to be negative or have an argument about this. But what are you thinking a wider chassis will be better. What is your theory of how this will be an improvement on the standard chassis.

Its top secret it will either work or it wont you will all just have to wait and see